Thursday, September 8, 2016

Review Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, introduced at SIHH 2013, the first timepiece in the Rotonde de Cartier family to combine these two popular complications. The watch, which comes in a 42-mm-diameter case of rose gold (pictured) or white gold, is powered by Cartier’s automatic manufacture caliber 9423 MC, which includes a new, in-house, dial-side module for the perpetual calendar functions. The calendar mechanism, which is designed to compensate for the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar, such as 30- and 31-day months and leap years, is a complex system of snails and cams that has at its heart a wheel that completes one revolution every four years https://www.captainthewatch.is/.

The wheel has 48 indentations of various depths on its circumference that indicate, via a feeler, the length of the current month (30, 31, 28, or 29 days). A retrograde hand, mounted on the dial at 6 o’clock, indicates the days of the week, and another center-mounted hand indicates the date by pointing at the numerals 1 through 31 along the edge of the dial. All the calendar displays are easily controlled — and, if necessary, reset — by quick-correction pushers in the case middle.

The dial features openworked areas and guilloché and sunray patterns, both Roman and Arabic numerals, and sword-shaped (for the hours and minutes) and hammer-shaped (for the date and day) hands in blued steel. The caseback features a sapphire window offering a view of the movement. The beaded gold crown is accented by a sapphire cabochon. The watch comes on a black or brown alligator strap with a gold double-adjustable folding clasp.

Review Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso

The P.3001/10 caliber has been nicely finished, with skeletonized barrels and bridges. The bridges have a brushed finish. The watch has a brown alligator strap with a rose-gold buckle. It is water resistant to 50 meters. The Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso costs $31,800.

The replica Panerai Radiomir watch gets the “3 Days” part of its moniker from its power reserve. Ref. PAM00570 (as the new watch is otherwise known) has a 72-hour power reserve, using two barrels to achieve the full three days of energy. Its caliber, P.3001/10, is hand wound, so that means a little more work for the wearer. But it’s worthwhile when you can turn the watch over and watch the wind decrease gradually, thanks to an arc-shaped power-reserve indicator on the back of the skeletonized movement.

PAM00570 has a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock; like some of its brethren, there’s also a date aperture at 3 o’clock. But the “GMT” in its name is thanks to its other function: an arrow-shaped, second-time-zone hand, mounted underneath the hour and minutes at the center of the dial. wLastly, there’s “Oro Rosso,” or “red gold” in Italian. The PAM00570 has a 47-mm-wide case made of 5nPt rose gold. This alloy has a higher percentage of copper than some rose golds, in addition to a small amount of platinum, which slows the process of oxidization. The bezel has been polished. Within the case, there’s a brown dial with a sunburst finish. The dial itself uses Panerai’s usual two-level construction, with luminous material from the lower level visible through cut-outs in the brown top layer.